As I close in on two years since my Lake Superior Circle Tour, I wanted to take one more look back at the trip as a whole. In particular, what I would do differently—and what I would keep the same.
This was a trip I had dreamed of doing for years. After my first marriage fell apart, I decided that I’d had enough of an indistinct “someday” and hit the road, thanks to two weeks of personal leave I obtained from work.
I’m glad for the experience I had back in 2022. It gave me something concrete to look forward to after what was probably the worst year of my life. But coming out on the other side, full of complicated and sometimes contradictory feelings, I wasn’t in a fit mental state to plan a two-week trip. I essentially found places to stay spaced a couple hours apart, got in my car, and left.
In thinking of what I would do differently, this is my chance to start planning the next time around—which I hope will be sooner than later.
Original 2022 Lake Superior Itinerary
Days 1 and 2: Houghton, Michigan (Keweenaw Peninsula)
Days 3 and 4: Bayfield, Wisconsin
Day 5: Hovland, Minnesota
Days 6 and 7: Thunder Bay, Ontario
Days 8 and 9: Pukaskwa National Park, Ontario
Days 10 and 11: Batchawana Bay, Ontario
Days 12 and 13: Marquette, Michigan
Revised Lake Superior Itinerary
Days 1 and 2: Marquette, Michigan (instead of Houghton)
It’s a long trip up to the Upper Peninsula, so I would absolutely spend two nights in the same place at the outset again. I would choose Marquette instead of Houghton because it’s a bit easier—and cheaper—to stock up on necessary supplies, and I have always enjoyed Marquette’s restaurants, breweries, and waterfront.
Day 3: Porcupine Mountains (instead of Bayfield, Wisconsin)
Drive time from Marquette: 2.5 hours
I’ve stopped through the Porcupine Mountains twice—including on this trip—but never immersed myself as much as I’d like to. Obviously, a day is insufficient, but it would give me the chance to get in up to my knees without slowing the trip down too much.
Day 4: Duluth, Minnesota (instead of Thunder Bay, Ontario)
Drive time from the Porcupine Mountains: 3 hours via the most direct route, or 4 hours via more scenic route through Bayfield, Wisconsin
I had never visited Thunder Bay previously, so I wanted to give it a try on my 2022 trip. While the city boasts some great breweries and restaurants, a fantastic lakefront view of Sleeping Giant, and the nearby Nor’Wester Mountains, my personal preference is for Duluth. It has more energy, and feels a bit more dynamic. There are some lonely stretches of highway ahead. Nothing wrong with enjoying one last day in the city.
Day 5 and 6: Hovland/Grand Marais, Minnesota (same as before)
Drive time from Duluth: 2.5 hours, but you’ll probably want to allow double that for stops along the way
My Airbnb cabin was one of my favorite places I’ve ever stayed. Grand Marais had a nice charm to it and felt welcoming to tourists without overdoing it. I would also add in a second day for a day trip to Isle Royale, if in the right season. Ferries are available from neighboring Grand Portage.
Days 7 and 8: Sleeping Giant Provincial Park, Ontario (instead of Thunder Bay)
Drive time from Hovland: 2 hours (plan some extra time for the border crossing)
As I mentioned above, I would skip Thunder Bay in favor of focusing on Sleeping Giant Provincial Park instead. Thunder Bay is close enough that it could be your base, but plan to spend your time at the provincial park instead.
Day 9: Nipigon, Ontario (in addition to Pukaskwa)
Drive time from Sleeping Giant: 1 hour
Here’s where things start to get fuzzy for me. After Thunder Bay, the Superior coast just seemed to fly by as I made the drive to Marathon in just a single day. There were so many beautiful places to turn off and survey the coast, some where I stopped, and some I wished I had. I would love to stop again and get a better sense of the area.
Day 10: Pukaskwa National Park, Ontario (same as before)
Drive time from Nipigon: 2.5 hours, but you’ll probably want to allow more time for stops (the scenery is stunning)
Pukaskwa National Park is beautiful and wasn’t too busy when I visited at the end of May. I would love to revisit some of the ground I covered, and also give the Coastal Hiking Trail a shot.
Day 11: Wawa, Ontario (instead of Batchawana Bay)
Drive time from Pukaskwa: 2 hours
An ideal launch pad to explore Lake Superior Provincial Park, including Old Woman Bay—one of my favorite beaches in the whole world.
Day 12: Sault Sainte Marie, Ontario (instead of Batchawana Bay)
Drive time from Wawa: 2-2.5 hours, but you’ve got to make a stop at Old Woman Bay
Sault Sainte Marie, Ontario, is a mixed bag: a rough city center ensconced in urban sprawl. Nonetheless, it’s home to one of my favorite restaurants anywhere, The Breakfast Pig, and has some lovely places to stay on the water a short drive outside the city.
Day 13: Whitefish Point, Michigan (instead of Marquette)
Drive time from Sault Sainte Marie: 1.5 hours (allow extra time for the border crossing)
On my first circle tour, I felt like there was a special significance in “completing the circle” and making it back to where I started. (OK, my first night was in Houghton, but I stopped through Marquette on the way.) As a consequence, the final stretch took me away from the lake. There’s very limited road access to Lake Superior in Chippewa and Luce Counties and the only way to get back to Marquette with any efficiency is via M28, which cuts through the heart of the Upper Peninsula. Staying in Whitefish Point or Paradise would be a more meaningful way to complete the circle, and is close enough to Tahquamenon Falls for a day trip.
