Buenos Aires is one of the most vibrant cities in the world. It also happens to be my fiancé’s hometown—so I know I’m a little biased.

I visited for the first time in July 2022, again in December, and most recently in May and June 2023. All told, I’ve spent about four months living in three different neighborhoods: Palermo Hollywood, Villa Crespo, and Caballito.

I’m going to spend the rest of my life writing about Buenos Aires, but I have to start somewhere. So here’s a brain dump of my experiences and observations.

Getting there

As a North American, the worst thing about Argentina is getting there. There are relatively few direct flights, mostly routed through Dallas, Miami, and New York. Even in the off-season, flights can be expensive and may come with connections and long layovers.

One tip: On my most recent trip, I found that flying out of Toronto would save me a lot of money. (For reference: I flew out in late May, returning in late June.) I ended up paying around $800 total to fly out of Toronto Pearson via New York to Ezeiza. When I looked at Midwestern hubs (Chicago, Detroit, Indianapolis, etc.), it would have cost me $1400—taxes and up-charges not included.

Customs

The first time I flew to Argentina, I was very nervous about going through customs. Border crossings/customs make me nervous in the first place, and I don’t speak Spanish.

But as an American, you’re in luck. It’s very easy to get through customs. I’ve done it three times and never had any problems. Just be prepared to share the address of where you’ll be staying after you give your thumb print and get a photo taken.

Getting into the city

If you’re flying out of North America, you will most likely land in Ezeiza, which is quite a ways outside the city. Bus line 8 takes you directly into the city, but does take some time. You will also need a SUBE card to use the bus system, which you can purchase at a kiosko in town. Kioskos are everywhere and they’re a bit like bodegas or miniature convenience stores.

My partner is from the city and is comfortable using public transit. If you’re unfamiliar with Buenos Aires, you might consider a taxi or shuttle for convenience.

One word of warning: public transit in Buenos Aires is excellent, but may be limited on holidays or during strikes—and there are a fair few of both in Argentina.

Things I love

The city’s alive at night

Buenos Aires is alive after dark. Many shops stay open until 9 or 10 in the summer and 8 or 9 during the winter. Restaurants are mostly open until at least 11 p.m., if not past midnight—especially on weekends.

Food

One of my favorite things in Argentina is eating. This is not a great place to be a vegan—though it’s certainly not impossible. If you keep an eye open, you’ll be sure to notice posters and graffiti from vegan activists around town.

But Argentina is a carnivorous nation, and beef is king. You can find every kind of burger joint imaginable in Buenos Aires. Skip the American chains and instead check out Mostaza or the super affordable (and delicious) Hamburgeusas Extremas.

With a large number of Italian immigrants, there’s no shortage of pizza places and Italian eateries. Pizzería Güerrín is one of my favorites, but plan to either go before the dinner rush hits, or be prepared to wait in a very long line. You don’t need to hit the high-trafficked restaurants near the Obelisco, however, to have a good meal. Pizzarias dot the city, and most serve delicious food without the wait.

For your consideration

The noise

Buenos Aires is very compact, densely populated, and apartments relatively small. You don’t get much of a buffer from street noise or your neighbors. The city is an ever-evolving organism, and construction is a constant. Of the three different Airbnbs I’ve stayed in, one was next to an apartment building that was under construction and another had an apartment that was being renovated.

Traffic dies down somewhat at night, but it never stops. If you’re sensitive to noise, consider a white noise machine or earplugs.

On the other hand, because apartments are so close together, be conscientious of the noise you make at night. We had a friend over for dinner one night and forgot to close a window after we were done cooking. We were having a quiet conversation in the kitchen around midnight when a neighbor knocked to complain.

Money

If you’re using the US or Canadian dollar, Euro, or British pound, your money will go a long way in Argentina.

For me, it’s easiest to get money out of the ATM and use cash. I like this for a few reasons.

• Leave your wallet and cards at home. Buenos Aires is a safe city in most areas you’ll frequent, but being in a different country where I can’t easily get my cards replaced it gives me a little peace of mind to leave them at home.
• Avoid unexpected complications. Usually, there’s no problem using your American card in Argentina. But I have had a card declined at a grocery store. (My fiancé thought it was probably because the cashier didn’t know how to run a foreign card.)
• You don’t need to show your ID. Many, if not most places, will require you to show an ID (i.e., passport) when you make a purchase with your card.
• Discounts. By using cash, you can get discounts—especially at smaller mom and pop shops. It’s not uncommon to get 10% off your purchase, helping you recoup any money from ATM fees.

Getting money out at ATMs is simple, and banks are everywhere. I just checked my most recent withdrawal (June 7, 2023), and I got 30,000 pesos out for $74. This includes a small fee from the bank. Depending on your budget and how frugal you want to be, that money can easily last you a few days to a week—if not longer.

For reference, a very good meal for two may cost you 7,000 pesos or more, depending on where you go and what you drink. One of the nicer places we go on special occasions is about 10,000 pesos for a full meal and wine.

If you’re able, please pass on some of that good fortune and be generous in providing tips to the city’s welcoming and highly professional wait staffs.

Safety

Buenos Aires is a generally safe city. That said, like many major cities, petty crime (i.e., stolen cell phones) is an issue and violent crime is not unknown.

Personally, I have only felt unsafe once in the city. My fiancé and I were on a subway when a man who was panhandling overheard us speaking in English. He sat down across from us and made some very homophobic comments and my fiancé quietly suggested we get off at the next stop. We didn’t engage him; after a tense moment, he got up and walked away.

I don’t share this to scare anyone or suggest that Buenos Aires is uniquely dangerous—it isn’t. And that includes for LGBTQ visitors. Unfortunately, homophobic attacks can and do happen everywhere.

Buenos Aires is a very LGBTQ-friendly city. My fiancé and I frequently walk around holding hands and no one has ever harassed us on the street. The only time that someone commented on us as a couple, two young teenage boys were walking behind us and one said to the other, “For you, which one do you think is the woman?” in a way that only teenage boys can.

Panhandling

With sky-high inflation, poverty is an issue in Buenos Aires. People have different ways of handling the cards they’ve been dealt. You’ll see some people huddled in doorsteps or laying in sleeping bags on the sidewalks. Some people peddle food or daily necessities like socks and tissues. If you ride more than a couple stops on the subway, you’re almost guaranteed to run into a street performer, a peddler, or panhandler. Needless to say, the vast majority are like any of the rest of us, doing what they can to make a living in a difficult economy where the cards are stacked against them.

One thing to note: if you’re on the subway and someone puts a bundle of pencils, candies, or tissues on your legs while you’re seated, don’t worry. This is totally normal. It’s not a scam. You’ll frequently encounter folks trying to peddle small merchandise going from car to car in the subway, placing their merchandise on people’s laps. It’s up to you, then, whether or not you’d like to make a purchase. If not, just hang tight. You don’t have to do anything! That same person will come back through before the next stop to pick it back up. No tricks, no gimmicks—just folks trying to make a living. If you want to make a purchase, just have some small bills ready.