I spent the 2023-24 school year working toward a master’s degree in Arthurian studies—and there’s only one place in the world where you can do that: Bangor, Wales.
Bangor is a terrific community and a place I was proud to call home. Like anywhere else in the world, it comes with its highs and lows. A recent survey created a controversy by naming Bangor the worst seaside town in the UK. Branwen Jones wrote a fantastic piece for Wales Online, however, that is part honest reaction, part heartfelt rebuttal, and part historical reflection. It’s well worth the read. For my part, I can only reiterate that I’ve lived in more than a dozen cities across five US states, Wales, France, and England. For me, Bangor ranks near the top.
With that caveat, I’ve set myself the task of delving through the good and the bad of life in Bangor. Next week I’ll be back with my list of highlights to living in Bangor, and there’s plenty to cover. For now, onward to talk about one of the biggest challenges we faced during our time there.
Everything Closes by 5
This week is short and sweet.
In an earlier post, I mentioned that winters in Bangor are challenging. It’s not so much the cold—it’s the dark. One of the things that makes that worse is a substantial lack of activity after 5.
By 5, nearly everything shuts on High Street and the city starts to feel like a ghost town. In her piece for Wales Online, Branwen Jones alludes to the hard economic times the city has fallen on in recent years. Without question, this contributes to the streets that feel startlingly vacant in the evening. That said, this isn’t a question of pure economics. If you travel across Wales/Cymru—including more prosperous areas like Cardiff, the nation’s capital—you’ll find similar situations where most shops close by 6 pm.
But in Bangor, without a huge variety of restaurants or evening activities on offer, this leaves the city feeling very small after 5.
In the evening, pubs become the pulse of the town. Luckily, Bangor has some good options. My two favorites are Tafarn y Garth next to the pier and Y Glôb, which is just minutes from Bangor University. The latter of the two pubs also hosts intimate folk music nights once a week, which you absolutely shouldn’t miss if you’re in town.
During my time in Bangor, Clio’s Lounge became a favorite evening destination where I often went to get writing done after dark. I agonized over this, feeling I should support a local pub instead of a national chain. And yes, I should have. Yet, what’s life if not a series of choices and compromises? I found the atmosphere accessible. I could sit alone at a table as I wrote with my coffee or glass of wine and not be bothered or feel as though I needed to explain myself to anyone, an absolute must if I want to accomplish any serious writing.
Apart from the city’s pubs, Bangor University’s Pontio Centre is your best bet for things to do after dark—movies, plays, concerts, film festivals, stand-up comedians. The options are decent. A 15-minute train ride away, Llandudno Junction has a larger cinema with more movie showings and neighboring Conwy and Llandudno offer a bit more evening activity accessible via public transit.
Yet, there’s no escaping it: Bangor is the breed of small town where you’re largely responsible for finding your own fun. Of course, this is a lot easier in the summer when you have long daylight hours at your disposal to enjoy Bangor’s magnificent surroundings.
To get through the winter is a more complicated question. We managed, in part, thanks to our investment in a Nintendo Switch. Plus, establishments like Clio’s Lounge and Tafarn y Garth have a relaxed atmosphere and can be a fun place to spend time, play board games, and enjoy a pint—Coke or Guinness, it’s up to you.
